Half (6/14-6/22)
wowza
Hello again! I write to you from Sahagún, the more-or-less halfway point of the Camino Frances. I’m staying the next town over but that sounds less cool.
I think today is day 16, which means in just over two weeks I walked 415 kilometers with my very own two feet. I am astounded every time I look at the map.
Sahagún is pretty smack dab in the middle of the meseta, the long, flat, no-shade bit of the Camino between Burgos and León. It’s characterized as solitary and there are more than a few long stretches of kilometers without towns (yesterday was one of the longest: 17.5km between Carrión de Condes and Caldazilla de la Cueza). I have been very lucky to have perfect meseta weather of cloud and cooler temperatures and some sprinkles of rain.
It has gone very quickly and yet so slowly (so, well-timed). The days are long but the years are short… or whatever. I continue to walk alone but the deck of who I run into has shuffled a bit. It’s remarkable to leave people in one city and run into them again five days later. I have spent a few days alongside some people to then lose them but expect to see them again along the way. I left my current crowd in Sahagún but will see them in Reliegos tomorrow.
It continues to be beautiful and I have some absolutely delightful morning walks as the sun comes up but as it gets hotter I get more irritable (and have hit a wall twice). I cannot believe I haven’t run out of things to think about (some have been in rotation a lot) but have added music into some days. I started a playlist of the songs that have come into my head but it’s gotten ridiculous so it might have to go into the archives for a bit (think: Unpack Your Adjectives from Schoolhouse Rock).
My backpack is awesome (Osprey Mira 32L) and I have had no problems with it. My Hoka Speedgoats might be the bane of my existence but they’ve gotten me this far and I’ll be damned if they don’t get me to Santiago. I wore out the (probably too old) arch supports I’d come to Europe in and while new ones have alleviated some annoying pain, the adjustment mid-walk has created other problems (blisters) (grrr).
I remember wanting to eschew sunscreen as a preteen, insisting I was too pale, and my mother would tell me tanning was still possible with sunscreen. I have never believed her until now. I have been very diligent but the backs of my legs are a noticeably different color than the fronts of my legs (I am walking west).
I didn’t write individual daily reflections but I have kept track of memorable events and where I stayed, which I hope will also help helpful for me when I get a keyboard and can leave reviews. I remembered more as I wrote these… many stories, but perhaps not for Substack (yet).
6/14: Ventosa - Azofra
I ran into a situation where the towns got spaced apart in a tricky way, so I stopped in Azofra after 16km and had a ~rest day~ in a private room. Luxury with a big towel and duvet.
6/15: Azofra - Viloria de Rioja
Left before the sun rose (unnecessary and cold) and got to the small town before 1 (maybe 2). Most precious of albergues and doubled as hostel and home. Hospitalero Mariaje made us communal dinner and I spent €5 on an awesome shirt.
6/16: Viloria - Agés
Longest day yet: 35km through some hot, dusty wilderness. Hit a wall of frustration on the way into Villafranca because it was so hot and the sun was so strong and my feet hurt. I felt better after I had lunch but resolved to not really want to walk that far or late again. Not delightful.
6/17: Agés - Tardajos
Walked with a woman from Bulgaria for far too long. Tried to shake her thrice. She told me my backpack was too heavy (it isn’t) and I haven’t stopped thinking about it since.
Burgos, as one of the largest Camino cities, had significant urban sprawl on either end. I took a scenic alternative past the airport and along the river, which I think was a good call.
I left the Camino in Burgos in search of better arch support, which I found both at an orthopedic shoe store run by the loveliest man and at a pharmacy. I bought postcards and had lunch near the Cathedral.
Tardajos was 10km more and the last hour (from 3:30-4:30… bad call) was brutal. Burgos marks the beginning of the meseta and it was a very flat and hot introduction.
6/18: Tardajos - Hontanas
Today was a day where things went wrong. I think the sandwich I’d had for dinner in Tardajos had something that disagreed with me. After having breakfast along the way in Hornillos de something, I proceeded to have 2 hours of stomach pain in the absolute middle of nowhere. Truly no town (and definitely no bathroom) for 8 kilometers.
My first big Camino cry… stomach hurt, feet hurt, everything felt awful and gross. And there wasn’t even a ROAD. Middle. Of. Nowhere.
I just tried to attach a picture and it simply would not work. Lo siento!
I had planned to go further but once I got to Hontanas I was absolutely sat. I lay in bed for two hours reading until I was alerted that there was a SPA (!!!) downstairs. Talk about business opportunities. It was vastly overpriced but I deserved it, goddamn it.
I had dinner with people I’d met days earlier and they discovered that Ed Sheeran is playing in Santiago on July 6th. Now their Way has a destination.
6/19: Hontanas - Itero de la Vega
An hour beyond Hontanas were the ruins of a beautiful monastery with a telescope. The albergue there was where I’d meant to stay and upon learning their lack of running water I was glad I’d opted to listen to my body.
After the next town, Castrojeriz, there was a mild mountain incline and then a lot of flat. I walked with a seventeen y/o who is here with her mom (mom walks slower).
It was another short-ish day today… the town after Itero was two more hours and I did not want to risk another stomach situation. I stayed in a hostel that was €20 with dinner included and was the only one… empty hostel to myself. A little spooky.
6/20: Itero - Villalcazar de Sirga
I don’t remember anything about this day except that I was one of three in the hostel and the hospitalero made rice and I read in bed for many hours. I cannot tell you what I’m reading for the sake of appearing adult but rest assured it’s a riveting young reader book series from my childhood.
The church had cool arches. I texted my friends and giggled.
6/21: Villalcazar - Calzadilla de la Cueza
I had my favorite combination of café con leche and tortilla española in a bar in the town nearest Villalcazar and geared up for the long stretch of no town.
It was actually fine! The weather was overcast (thank goodness) and I had a lot of thoughts.
The way was flat and long but then I came over a tiny incline and there was the village! Perfectly small and the albergue had a POOL. Brilliant.
6/22: Calzadilla - Calzada de Coto
This one is today! Three or four small towns on the way into Sahagún with options for water and the potential of a snack. I walked with my new favorite walking buddies (both middle-aged women who say I am an “old soul”).
Coming into Sahagún marks halfway on the Camino Frances! Bizarre and weird and cool. My feet hurt but I feel good about doing the distance I just did one more time! Hooray.
I continued 5km beyond to Calzada and am one of five in the donativo municipal albergue. I am going to have a nice dinner and finish my book and tomorrow I will go to Reliegos. I think I’m coming up on (or am) halfway through the meseta, which means Galicia approaches rapidly. And one thing about me is that I think Galicia is the most beautiful place in the whole world.
I continue to walk and I continue to think and I continue to imagine. My Spanish is improving. I had a phenomenal conversation with an older man from Derry that prompted some new ideas for what may come next. I am healthy (except for a new blister on my heel) and feel strong and proud. I’m trying not to rush myself towards my favorite region of Spain (I’m biased) but I’m thrilled that it gets nearer no matter what. Que te vaya bien!
P.S. sorry about the lack of pictures. they are not loading on the hostel wifi. i will try to return to this to add them once i have sifted through a bit more.